Planting Guide - New Plant Care

For staking use soft rubber ties that are NOT too tight.

Wrap should extend just below the soil line.

At one time nurseries required staking until it was discovered that staking in effect coddles the tree and shifts it's natural development of strength. If your new plant seems sturdy and grows upright without staking, so much the better. However, if you live where there are constant high winds or your new tree is over 8 feet tall you should stake the plants.

Use soft rubber ties that avoids girdling of the wood and allows enough movement for the development of stem wood.
Pound stakes flush with the ground.

Wrapping may not be necessary but does provide several benefits.

Prevents sun scald.
Limits damage from insects, cats, children, rodents, mowers and weed eaters.
Wrap in overlapping circles.
Remove the wrap in the spring following the trees first full growing season and winter.

Watering
Lack of watering during the first season is a major cause of plant loss. The limited root system on new plants makes them highly susceptible to dry weather damage. Supplemental watering is an absolute necessity. Wet the soil enough to soak through to the base of the root system at each watering. Water the plant twice a week during hot weather unless there is at least 1 inch of rain fall per week to 10 days. Cultivation Frequent, shallow cultivation will control weeds and produce a dust mulch to conserve much needed moisture in the soil. Mulching For ornamental trees, shrubs and evergreens a mulch of peat, grass clippings, composted manure, marsh hay or straw may be used.
Fertilizing After the first year fertilize trees regularly. One quarter (1/4) pound of a commercial nitrate fertilizer per year of growth, broadcast under the spread of the branches in the spring is excellent. Small fruit trees and shrubs will respond to the same treatment.
Insects There are two classes of insects that may attack trees and plants. Sucking insects, may be killed by application of with insecticide spray or dust. Chewing insects are best controlled by poisons they take into their stomachs.

Soft bodied, sap-sucking insects such as aphids, white flies, red spiders and mealy bugs are best controlled with mitracide, sevin or other appropriate insecticide. Rotenone or pyrethrum should be used on vegetables since they are harmless to humans.

Hard bodied sap-sucking insects, like scale which suck the juice from twigs or branches and trunk, are best controlled by dormant sprays such as lime sulphur solution or miscible oil.

Insects which sucks out the vital juices of the plant are found on young growth or on the undersides of leaves. The leaves usually wither and curl on the infested part.

Leaf eating insects such as beetles, weevils, grubs, worms and caterpillars are killed by poison applied to the leaf. Rotenone or pyrethrum should be used on vegetables. Sevin is effective on some insects like Leaf miners and web worms in lawns.

Chewing insects eat holes in the plants leaves or the entire leaf.